Saturday, February 24, 2018

Cayo Costa.....

Last Wednesday we decided to take a cruise to Cayo Costa Island and do some shelling. So we drove to Bokeelia at the north end of Pine Island and boarded the Tropic Star at Jug Creek Marina.


Tropic Star

As we passed the islands of Gasparilla, Sanibel, Captiva and Useppa, all part of stories surrounding the pirate Jose Gaspar, our captain entertained us by relating the legend of the “Last of the Buccaneers”.

One story claims Jose Gaspar worked his way into a high position in the court of King Charles III.  Other members of the court became jealous of his success and plotted against him, convincing the king that Jose was guilty of treason. Orders were given for his immediate arrest upon his return to Spain. However he never returned to his homeland.

Some say he began life as a troubled youth who kidnapped a young girl for ransom. He was captured, and given the choice between prison and joining the navy. Gaspar went to sea, where he served with distinction for several years before leading a mutiny against a tyrannical captain and fleeing to Florida.

Others claim Gaspar was a Spanish nobleman who reached a high rank in the Spanish navy and became a councilor to King Charles III. When a jilted lover brought false charges against him, he stole a ship and vowed to exact revenge on his country.

No matter who tells the tale, Gaspar fled to the virtually uninhabited west coast of Florida about 1783 and turned to piracy. He established his base on Gasparilla Island and was soon the scourge of the Gulf of Mexico, where he plundered dozens of ships and amassed a huge cache of treasure.

But according to the legend, Gaspar was not victorious in his last battle.  An American pirate-hunting vessel, the USS Enterprise, disguised itself as a British merchant ship and took Gaspar by surprise in Tampa Bay in 1821.  When it was clear that the American forces would win the battle, Gaspar vowed he would not be taken alive to face the hangman's noose.  So he wound the anchor chain about himself and threw himself and the anchor into the sea, crying, "Gasparilla dies by his own hand, not the enemy's!" And to this day, it is said that you should not stand alone on them deck of a ship in Tampa Bay.  For if no one is with you and no one is watching, the ghost of Jose Gaspar will rise up from the depths, still wrapped in the anchor chain and drag you down

Every year Tampa's Gasparilla Festival celebrates the battle between Gaspar and American forces that supposedly occurred in Tampa Bay.  There is a huge "invasion" during which large numbers of boats enter the harbor and unload their pirate crews.  These marauders then "kidnap" the mayor and hold him until he turns over the key to the city.  What follows is two days of revelry, including parades.

The legend claims that Gasparilla Island gets its name from the pirate captain, Captiva Island is so named because it’s the place where Gaspar held female captives until they could be ransomed by their families, Useppa Island in named after a Spanish Princess who was murdered and buried on the Island by Gaspar after she refused Gaspar’s advances, and Sanibel Island is said to have been named by Gaspar's first mate after his lover whom he had left back in Spain.

Drawing of Jose Gaspar in 1900 brochure


Seems much this legend is the result of promotion by a local hotel and railroad line. The folklore account does not appear in writing until about 1900, when it was included in an advertising brochure for the Charlotte Harbor and Northern Railway Company. This brochure was given to the guests of the Boca Grande Hotel and mentions that Gaspar's massive treasure was hidden somewhere on Gasparilla Island. The Gasparilla story told in the pamphlet likely influenced all later accounts.

There is no evidence prior to 1900 that Jose Gaspar ever existed. Research in Spanish and American archives have turned up no mention of his early life, naval or courtly career, or piratical exploits, and no physical evidence of his presence has ever been found on Gasparilla Island or anywhere else in southwest Florida. While the USS Enterprise was assigned to the West Indies Squadron tasked with suppressing piracy in the Caribbean, it had been converted into a brig by the time of its supposed battle with Gaspar, and was documented to have been in Cuba in December 1821, not in Tampa Harbor, where Gaspar's last battle is said to have taken place.  There is no mention of the name "Gaspar" or "Gasparilla" in contemporary newspaper accounts, US Navy ships' logs, or the trial records and testimonies of the hundreds of prisoners tried for piracy during the era. In fact, there was little documented piracy on Florida's west coast during Gaspar's supposed heyday because there were no established settlements in the area and thus few merchant ships carrying the easily liquidated cargo favored by pirates.

The name "Gasparilla Island" appears on maps dating to well before the time of the buccaneer; anthropologist Andre-Marcel d'Ans suggests it was actually named for a Spanish missionary named Gaspar or Gasparillo.

Sanabel Island was named “Santa Isybella” after Queen Isabella by Juan Ponce de Leon in 1513. In 1527 the name was noted on Spanish maps as “San Ybel” or “S. Nivel”. About 250 years later, a British man who was commissioned to map out the Florida coast wrote the name as “Sanybel” on the map he created. From there, the name quickly evolved into “Sanibel” as it remains today.

Useppa Island’s name is noted as “Josefa Island” in 1832. Useppa Island first appeared on a hydrological chart of the area in 1855.  

By the way, in 1960 Useppa Island briefly served as a CIA training base for Cuban exiles in preparation for the Bay of Pigs Invasion.



Before we knew it we had arrived at the docks on Cayo Costa Island (Spanish for 'small coastal island'). It is approximately nine miles long and about 1 mile wide, consisting of beautiful beaches, pine forests, oak-palm hammocks and mangrove swamps. About half of the island is a state park and the other half occupied by 25 or so private homes.

Cayo Costa is a bridgeless island, with no paved roads, or cars. There is a tram that takes visitors the one mile from the docks to the beaches on the other side of the island.

Sailboats anchored off Cayo Costa





Tram on island

The state park does have a campground as well as several cabins for rent. There is potable water but no electricity on the island. Although there is a small camp store with necessities, campers, must bring in all supplies and gear by boat. 

Camp site on Cayo Costa



State park rental cabin


Amphitheater for Ranger talks 

Beach on Cayo Costa

Shore birds (Kildeer)

Pelicans


Crab near dock (really clear water!!)
The island is well known for shelling and Ronna was able to collect a few treasures.

Ronna's treasures

Next week is the Lee County Fair. Corn dogs and deep fried Twinkies here we come!!











Sunday, February 11, 2018

Cheeseburgers in Paradise....





Last Wednesday morning found us at Fisherman’s Village Marina boarding The Island Star, part of the King Fisher Fleet, for an excursion to Cabbage Key for lunch.

King Fisher Fleet was originally founded over 30 years ago as a one-boat fishing guide service by Capt. Bob Allen and his wife Helen. The fleet has grown to include multiple fishing boats and excursion boats and employs approximately two dozen staff including boat captains, fishing guides, tour boat mates and booking agents.

Fisherman's Village Marina

Fisherman's Village Marina

 
Great Blue Heron at marina
Snowy Egret at marina


The Island Star

Looking forward

Looking aft

During the cruise we were entertained by our captain and crew relating interesting historical facts about the Charlotte Harbor area, watching the passing boats and the dolphins that occasionally swam next to us.

Passing sailboat

Atlantic Bottlenose Dolphins

Passing boat

Osprey enjoying lunch atop a navigational marker

Getting passed again


Cabbage Key is a 100-acre island in Pine Island Sound, not far from Captiva and Sanibel Islands. There are no paved roads, and is accessible only by boat or plane. The island is largely comprised of a Calusa Indian shell mound and sits 38 feet above sea level. Calusa Indians did not farm like the other Indian tribes in Florida. Instead, they fished for food on the coast, bays, rivers, and waterways. They learned to catch shellfish like conchs, crabs, clams, lobsters, and oysters. The Calusa did not make many pottery items. Instead they used shells for tools, utensils, jewelry, fishing / hunting spears and ornaments for their shrines.  Shell debris was discarded into huge heaps.


Someone's living the good life at Cabbage Key

 The Cabbage Key Inn was built to be a private home by Alan and Grace Rinehart. Alan was the son of Mary Roberts Rinehart, the once famous and best-selling mystery writer. They bought the island in 1929 for $2500 and spent another $125,000 creating their winter estate. The main building was constructed in the 1930s. It became an inn and opened to the public  in 1944 when the island was purchased by an artist, Larry Stults, and his wife, Jan. They ran it until 1969 when Bob and JoAnn Beck took the helm. Current owners Rob and Phyllis Wells live on the island and have run it for three decades.

The original house (now the inn and restaurant) has six fireplaces, five porches and a 25,000 gallon water storage tank to capture rainwater. Over the years cottages were added, one as a playhouse for the kids, one for the caretaker and a few for friends. Some of the cottages now can be rented by the public for overnight stays and others house the restaurant staff.

View of Inn from the dock
View of small beach below Inn

One of the rental cottages on Cabbage Key
Yellow Crowned Night Heron on Cabbage Key

Turks Hat Hibiscus on Cabbage Key


In the main dining room there are thousands of dollar bills. Legend says it started with a local fisherman who taped a signed dollar bill to the wall as pre-payment for his next cold beverage. An estimated 70,000 autographed bills now paper the walls and ceiling of the restaurant. Some of the bills are firmly affixed, while others dangle and sway in the breeze from the ceiling fans. Any bills that fall are donated to charity. Of course patrons are constantly replacing the fallen ones with their own signed bills.

Ceiling in main dining room

Another picture of main dining room


Legend has it Cabbage Key inspired Jimmy Buffett’s famous song, “Cheeseburger in Paradise,” and, indeed, the singer’s own signed bill hangs proudly behind the restaurant bar. In the late 70s, Buffett’s sister lived on Boca Grande, a nearby island.  An avid pilot, Buffet arrived via seaplane and pulled right up to the small section of beach near the boat slips below the restaurant. While Buffett’s publicist won’t confirm or deny if Buffet penned his famous song on Cabbage Key, Buffet did dedicate the song to the staff of the restaurant at a 1978 concert (the year the song was released) at the Lee County Civic Center. Could be that’s where the legend of the song being inspired by the island and its cheeseburgers was born.

We thought it only fitting to dine on cheeseburgers before returning to Fisherman’s Village Marina.

Sunday, February 4, 2018

Settling in........

We arrived at Alligator Park on January 15th so I thought it was about time I posted an update.

Park entrance 



Alligator Park is a resident owned, 55 & over mobile home park that caters to snowbirds with their RV’s as well. While one area the park has RV sites in rows, other RV sites are mixed in with the permanent resident’s mobile homes; we are between 2 permanent residents. The mobile homes of the residents are well kept with some having very nice landscaping.

RV row



Our site





Our street



Resident across from out site


Resident patio


A few years back, when I was on the road full time, I checked out this place as well as several others in the same area. I found Alligator park to be the most desirable because of the space between the mobile homes, the upkeep of the property and homes and the friendliness of the staff and residents. It’s no wonder there aren’t any vacancies. We have already booked the same site for next winter so we have a place to stay, but we will continue to check other parks in the area just to keep our options open.

The park is well maintained with a large community center that hosts a variety of activities, a heated pool, and a building that houses a laundry, central mail room and well stocked library.


Community Center


Heated pool


Multi-use building

The "must have" shuffle board courts


The White Ibis are everywhere


There is a Walmart (saw a gator there Friday), Home Depot, Publix grocery store and gas stations within a few miles of our temporary home. We are about 20-30 minutes away from FT. Myers, Cape Coral, Pine Island, Matlacha Pass and just south of Charlotte Harbor. The beaches at Ponce De Leon Park are a short 20 minute drive.

Life has settled down to somewhat of a routine now. We found a gym very close by that’s free for me (Silver Sneakers program with my Medicare Advantage plan) and was a reasonable cost for Ronna during our 10 week stay; we work out every morning Monday thru Friday.

Wednesday is usually reserved for some type of exploring and dockside dining, sampling the local seafood.  Of course there is the usual laundry, grocery shopping and keeping the camper and truck clean. But there is always a dip in the pool to end the day.